Method of Stitching Dothi Salwar Design New

Friday, December 14, 2012

Measurements
Waist
Seat
Full length
Leg round
Fabric required 3 meters of 42” wide cloth.
Fold the material in to half so that raw edges meet (Figure 1).

Folding the fabric

Once again fold the material on bias so that selvedges meet.(Figure 2).

. A triangle having 4 layers is formed .Let me call the triangle as ∆ PQR. (Figure 3).

Preparation of the draft

On the selvedge point Q such that Q-R= Full length- waist piece length + 1”.
On the side Q-R mark point S such that S-R =½ leg round or 8” to 9”.
Mark T such that Q-T = ⅟₆ th seat + ½”.
From The point T draw a perpendicular T-V to the line Q-T such that V-T =2”.
Q-U = V-T.
Shape the curve U-V. This is crotch.
From the corner P chop off a triangular piece such that P-X =P-W=3”.
Cut the fabric along the lines T-U-W-X.
This contains 2 leg pieces. From the remaining piece of fabric cut and prepare waist band as explained in the post “salwar with waist band.” (Figure 4)

Stitching
Figure 5

Clip ¾” at the point S. Fold in ¼’ first and then½’and stitch complete leg opening.
Stitch along the line S-T having a seam of ¾”.put one more line of stitches on the same line.
Stitch W-X.
In the same manner stitch other leg piece .
Insert one leg piece in to the other keeping right sides together and stitch along the crotch seam from front to back. (Figure 6).

. Prepare waist band as explained in the post “salwar with waist band”. Pin W and W’ to the sides of the waist band and crotch seams U and U’ to the front and back of the waist band. (Figure 7).

Attach front of the right leg piece to the waist band. Start pleating 2” away from the point W and stop near the crotch line. Pleats should turn towards the sides. In the same way attach the back side of the right leg piece to the back side of the waist band. Size and the number of pleats taken at back and front should be same. By doing so pleats take “U “ shape and fall one below the other at the sides( Figure 8 ).