Method of stitching cowl neck- Mid depth cowl

Saturday, January 11, 2014

Cowl is loosely draped bias folds of fabric. It can be created on front and back neckline of dresses, skirts, pants and even on armholes. It gives elegant look for the garment .There are many verities of cowls such as low cowl, high cowl, mid depth cowl. Pleated cowl etc.

Material used for cowls should drape well. Chiffon, knitted fabric or any woven material which is supple enough to drape is suitable.

Method of sewing mid depth cowl

Prepare the front and back of the bodice block.

We have to make a few changes in the bodice block to stitch cowl neck.

Bodice front

In Figure 1 E-P is the shoulder line. Curve P-Q is the original neck line. Q-R is the center front. O is the bust point. Draw a perpendicular line O-F from bust point to center front. Mark Point A on the shoulder line E-P from where you want Cowl neckline to drape. This is neckline starting point. Mark point B on the center front between neck and bust level. Cowl falls from point A to point B. join A-B.

Bodice back

E’-P’ is shoulder line .Curve P’-Q’ is the original back beck line. Q’-R’ is back center line. Mark point A’ on the shoulder line such that E’-A’= E-A +¼”.Mark point B’ on the center back such that B’-Q’ =1½”.

Join A’-B’. This is the new neck line of the back.

Cut along the line A-B and A-’B’ and remove the shaded portion of the draft.

Join points A and B. Draw slash line from shoulder tip E to point F. Draw another line C-D In between the lines A-B and E-F as shown in the figure 3.cut the line D-C and F-E till the shoulder line keeping the shoulder line intact. Cut the line F-O till the point O not through the point O.

Take folded sheet of paper and draw a line M-N 6” away from the short edge as shown in

figure 4.

Sheet above the line M-N is for self-facing.

Place the new draft of the front prepared such that line A-B of the draft touches the line M-N and point B falls on the fold of the paper and secure them with pins. Center front line of the draft which is below bust level is placed on the fold of the paper and secured with pins. Spread the cut sections of the draft as shown in figure and secure them with pins. The edges of the sections which project beyond the fold of the paper are not needed.

Fold the paper back along the line M-N as shown in Figure 5. Cut along the dotted line as shown. Trim the edges of the sections which projects beyond the fold of paper.

Unfold the sheet of the paper along the line M-N. Trim the facing as shown. Draft for cowl front is got ( Figure 6).

Layout

Fold the fabric on true bias and place draft of front as shown in Figure 7 and cut the pattern piece.

Back of the bodice and back neck facing is cut as usual.

Bodice back

pattern pieces

Stitching

Finish back neck with facing.

Finish the edge of the self-facing of the cowl by turning the edge in.

Align front and back shoulder seams keeping right sides together and secure them with running stitches.

Fold the self-facing along the cowl line over the back neck line. Now right side of the facing will be together wrong side of the back. Pin the shoulder seam of the bodice to the shoulder seam portion of the facing. Stitch three layers together.